Youthful. Skin. At Last.

Skin Care 102: The Extras

In For Men on December 17, 2008 at 12:01 AM

Now that we’ve covered the bare-bones basics of skin care, there are two steps you’ll want to add to your Basic 1-2-3 program on a weekly or bi-weekly basis that are important for maintaining healthy, problem-free skin. Although they are “extras”, they are essential. Exfoliating removes the dead cell buildup on your face and leaves your skin soft and smooth. A clay mask deep cleans the pores and soothes the skin. The Basics are your daily maintenance. These Extras can take your skin one step closer to being its best.

Exfoliating

  • The removal of these dead cells is called exfoliation. It allows the younger, newer cells to come up to the surface, making the skin feel softer and look brighter. Exfoliating on a regular basis is one of the most important things you can do for your skin.
  • You should exfoliate at least once a week. The more you exfoliate, the smoother and healthier your skin will look and feel.
  • Basically just follow the directions given for the product you are using. Always exfoliate your face as well as your neck. I always exfoliate the top of my hands as well. When you’re applying a scrub, you want to use light, circular movements — never aplying too much pressure, pulling or digging into the skin. Scrubs always need to be used on wet-damp skin.

Clay Masking

  • A clay mask is a deep-cleansing treatment for your pores. It is a mixture of different clays in an emollient or creamy base. Clay is stimulating and calming, as well as deep cleansing. It is good for all skin types and can even be used on sensitive and irritated skin. After using a clay mask, your face should be very clean, and the surface should be clear with a healthy glow.
  • There are several common names for clay you will see in a mask ingredient list: kaolin, bentonite, French clay, China clay, green clay, and others. When looking for a clay mask, you want to make sure clay is one of the first three ingredients especially since ingredients are listed by weight.
  • Contrary to popular belief, never let clay dry on your face. It’s like taking one step forward, two steps back; it will dry out the surface of your skin. On clean dry skin, apply a think layer of mask over your entire face, avoiding the eye area. Thick layer means thick enough that you can’t see your skin underneath. Unless your neck is broken out, you don’t need to apply clay there. Instead apply a thick layer of your moisturizer to your neck in this treatment.
  • You want to keep the clay mask moist the entire time it’s on your face. When you start to feel your mask starting to dry, grab your bottle and spray your face thoroughly with water (it should be moist and not dripping). During the 15 minutes you have the mask on, you will probably spray 3 to 4 times — whatever it takes to keep the clay moist.
  • If you don’t have 15 minutes but you really need to apply a mask, keep it on for 5 to 10 minutes. Using it even for short amounts of time is better than not using it at all. After your time is up, rinse the clay off with lukewarm water, pat your skin dry, use your toner, and moisturizer along with eye cream. When it comes time to rinse the mask off, you’ll be glad you kept it moist. Trust me, a dried-on, hardened clay mask is very difficult to remove.

Tips

  • Don’t use scrubs as your cleanser. They don’t have the ingredients to break down oil and dirt like a cleanser does.
  • Exfoliating prior to a special occasion has a twofold benefit for your skin. Not only will it will exfoliate dead cells, making your skin’s surface smoother and helping your makeup go on better, it also stimulates circulation, making your skin luminous.
  • Using your facial scrub in the shower helps to lessen the mess when it comes time to rinse your face.
  • If you are a bath-taking person, put the clay on your clean, dry face, then grab your spray bottle, hop into the tub, relax, enjoy, and every so often spray your face. I don’t recommend splashing the bathwater on your face as it could really irritate your skin.
  • If you’re a shower-taking person, apply your clay mask after brushing your teeth. Jump into the shower, and the mask will stay moist from the steam. Rinse it off at the end of your shower, then use your toner, moisturizer, and eye cream.
  • Using a clay mask in a steam room is the perfect marriage of protection, cleansing, and circulation. Since the clay will stay perfectly moist in this environment, it is also an ideal place to use your mask. Also note that if you find yourself in a steam room without a clay mask handy, I highly recommend wetting a few paper towels and putting them over your face while steaming.
  • It’s best to mask after exfoliating if you’re using them together. They don’t need to be done together, but it’s nice to do both if you have the time.

Summary

Until the next blog… feed your skin!

  1. The toner I use is brownish in color. Does the color make any difference? My perception is that clear, colorless toner is better. What are your thoughts?
    I love your blog by the way…but then again I didn’t expect anything less!
    You’re the BEST!

  2. Segun,

    I understand the common perception that any skin care product that is clear and colorless is better, however, that’s not always the case. If you are using a “true” organic/natural toner, the brown color could be a result of the herbal ingredients used in manufacturing the toner. My instinct tells me that might not be the case :-) considering most skin care products contain “color”.

    If it’s not too much to ask, could you please list your toner’s ingredients here? I would appreciate it.

  3. 23% Hamamelis and 2% Camomile active extracts, 3% Sage and 2% Rosemary distillates, 2% Jasmine, 1% Linden

  4. The name of the product is Korres Hamamelis Cleansing Toner.
    I hope this helps.

  5. It’s my pleasure, Ruke. Please make sure to check back for more tips as I’m constantly updating the blog. Until the next blog… feed your skin!

  6. Segun, it doesn’t seem like the percentages add up so let me look into the full ingredient list & I’ll get back to you.

  7. Segun, here’s the full ingredient list as displayed on http://www.beautyexclusive.com. Ingredients: Water, Butylene Glycol, Hamamelis Virginia (Witch Hazel) Distillate, Hamamelis Virginia (Witch Hazel) Extract, Sage Distillate, Glycerin, Rosemary Distillate, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract, Jasmine Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Methyl Bluceth-20, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Allantoin, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Sage Extract, Sodium Gluconate, Linden Extract.

    I’ll be honest & tell you I can’t make out what could be giving Korres’ toner the brown color considering that skin care ingredients are processed differently from manufacturer to manufacturer. However, note that 33% of the product seems natural and the remaining 66% is questionable. The reason for my comment is that ingredients are listed in descending order from largest to smallest and even though butylene glycol is a common humectant and solubilizer used in cosmetic and food preparations, its recommended usage rate should be around 0.5% to be considered safe for topical use. Apparently, that’s not the case. In my facial toners, I use kosher glycerin skimmed off organic homemade soaps as they are curing so I know my source is natural (no surprise, there is also such a thing as synthetic glycerin). Other ingredients in the toner that give me pause are Pentylene Glycol, Methyl Bluceth-20, and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (why not the real thing?).

    Korres isn’t a bad company or produces bad products however, this goes to show you that it does pay to read the labels of cosmetics just as closely as we do our food. The trick is that most cosmetic labels will list ingredients using their chemically known names (with the common name in parentheses) so if 50% of the ingredients don’t make sense to you and the first five ingredients are not natural/organic, then my advice would be to move on the next product.

    If your skin is combination/oily, I would recommend Ultimate Toning Mist or any of their toners based on your skin type. Another natural company that makes toners without alcohol is Avalon Organics; I especially like their Lavender Hydrating Toner but I will tell you, it’s stingy ‘cuz they formulate it with a LOT of lavender (I dilute it with some distilled water before I use it). Okay, hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions/comments.

    Until the next blog… feed your skin!